Assembling the rigging of our boats has been made as basic and efficient as possible. The sequence below corresponds to the diagram.

These instructions pertain to all of our sailing models except for the Melonseed, which has a balanced lug rig.  Melonseed Skiff Rigging Instructions can be found HERE.

Here is a diagram of the rigging. Click the image for a larger view.

1) Slip the 2 sections of the mast together. The top section has a nylon cap with halyard sheave, the lower section has the gooseneck track.

2) Tie the ends of the halyards together so that you don’t have it run through the block. Place the hooks for the shrouds and jib halyard in the three holes in the top of the mast, the jib halyard is the center hole.

3) Insert the mast into the mast step on the boat.

4) Fasten the shrouds to the cleats on each side of the boat.

Each shroud ties to a jam cleat on the inside of the gunwale. First loop the shroud around the cleat, then up through the brass ring, then back down to the cleat and cleat it off. This arrangement furnishes a 3:1 ‘block and tackle’ principle and makes it easier to tension the shroud. Apply enough tension to both shrouds evenly to bend the mast aft approximately 2″ -3″.
5) Tie the jib halyard to the ring at the bow for the moment, and thread the tail through the block on the mast, cleat the line off. Then tie a figure “8” knot in the end to prevent it from running back through.6) Install the boom by sliding the gooseneck fitting on the boom on the track on the mast. Lock it in place on the track using the thumbscrew on the bottom of the gooseneck.

7) Bend the mainsail onto the mast by first inserting the gooseneck tack pin into the grommet at the tack of the mainsail, then snap each mast ring around the mast and through the grommets on the luff of the sail.

8) Tie the jib halyard to the top, head of the jib, and clip the front corner, tack, to the ring on the bow. Run the sheets aft to the blocks on the side of the boat and tie a figure “8” knot in the end of the lines.

9) Raise the mainsail by tying one end of the halyard to the top, head, of the sail and pulling on the free end. The free end of the main halyard will fasten to a black nylon cleat mounted on the mast if your boat is equipped with a jib. If your boat only has a mainsail, the halyard will go through a block at the base of the mast and then to a quick-release cleat on the daggerboard trunk.

10) Tie the outhaul line to the grommet at the back, clew, of the sail, lead the line through the fairlead at the end of the boom, then forward to the jam cleat. Don’t pull it too tight. The foot of the sail should have some curvature. The 5/8″ stainless steel slide must be on the track to allow the sail to have the correct shape. Tie a figure eight knot in the line to prevent the slider from coming off the end of the track.
11) Tie one end of the mainsheet to the ring on the traveler. (NOTE: Later model boats may not have a ring on the traveler. If you have a later-model boat, clip the end of the mainsheet directly to the traveler.) Lead it up to the block at the back of the boom, then forward on the boom to the front block, then down to the block on top of the daggerboard trunk and back to the cleat. On the larger boats, run the the line down to the ring and back up to the boom and tie it off there.
  12) Install the rudder and daggerboard. Be sure to slide the tiller under the mainsheet traveler line before placing the rudder pintals in the transom gudeons.Apply enough tension on the jib halyard to pull the mast forward until it is straight.  Make sure that the jib sheets run free of the shrouds.If you have the roller furling gear, install the bottom furling spool on the bow eye strap then attach the tack of the jib to the top of the spool. Next tie the halyard to one end of the swivel and attach other end with the shackle to the head of the jib. Run the roller furling line through the fairleads aft to the cockpit cleat. Reave the jib halyard, then hoist the sail. To roll the jib, hold the jib sheet lightly and pull the furling line. Now reave the jib sheets through their blocks on the gunnel back to their cleats. Cleat both the jib sheet and the furling line if the wind is blowing to keep it from unrolling until you are ready. If you have “help” and need to rewind the roller furler by hand, it takes 17 turns of the furling line in the spool to fully roll one of our jibs. Just guide the line back in as you rewind it.